Quick Tip When using a printer profile, you will tell Photoshop to be charge of color management. This means you will be turning off the color management controls of your inkjet printer in the process. When your photo or file is ready to print, choose File Print or hit Ctrl + P on your keyboard.
PhotoME is a powerful tool to show and edit the meta data of image files. Thanks to the well organised layout and intuitive handling, it's possible to analyse and modify Exif and IPTC-NAA data as well as analyse ICC profiles - and it's completely FREE! Conde's Tech Support Manager, Vicky Waldrop demonstrates how to configure Conde's color ICC profiles with Photoshop CS6. Check out for more tips.
Choose your printer from the 'Printer' drop down menu first. Choose 'Photoshop Manages Color' from the 'Color Handling' drop down. Now select the profile for your printer and paper in the 'Printer Profile' drop down. This menu is arranged alphabetically.
Red River profiles all start with 'RR'. Rendering Intent: We recommend Relative Colorimetric for most prints.
You can also try Perceptual if your results are not satisfactory. For info on rendering intent. Black Point Compensation should always be checked on. Now click the Print Settings to launch your printer's property dialog.
If you have an older printer scroll down for alternative instructions. MEDIA TYPE - Start by setting the media type - we tell you the right setting in the instructions that come with the profile download or on the download page.
The Red River Paper profile name will not appear in this drop down! Only Epson paper types. PRINT QUALITY - Pick your preferred print quality.
With Epson printers, the 'Quality' or 'Level 4' setting is recommended for most print projects. MODE - Set the mode to 'Off (No Color Adjustment)'. The Epson properties dialog varies from printer to printer. Below are two of the most prevalent driver types. Scroll down further for help with older printer models.
Chances are your Epson printer properties look like one of the below examples. Find the closest one and use it for reference. Now choose the paper size then click OK to go back to Photoshop. Once there click Print. Older Epson printer property instructions. Start by setting your media type - we tell you the right setting in the instructions that come with the profile download or on the download page. Note: The Red River Paper profile name will not appear in this drop down!
Only Epson paper types. Next, Color Management should automatically be set to ICM / Off (No Color Adjustment) by Photoshop. If it is not then make your settings look like the screen grab below. Pick your preferred print quality and paper size then click OK to go back to Photoshop.
Once there click Print. Video Tutorial Available Watch the companion video to this tutorial Questions? Contact us via the Join the Email List Today! Join 75,000 photography and printing fans for special offers and money saving deals first.
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Anyone know of reasonably priced software that will allow editing of ICC printer profiles? I used to use AMS Color Darkroom which gave the ability to alter curves for each color channel in as much detail as required, but Color Darkroom doesn't seem to be supported anymore and isn't compatible with the latest versions of Photoshop (it was a 32 bit photoshop plugin and doesn't even install when using the latest versions of Photoshop CC). Yes, I know that printer profiles 'shouldn't' be edited, but the profiles which are created by the Colormunki Photo simply don't manage to give acceptable greyscale on paper which has any form of brightening agents in it (most high gloss papers). The prints end up far too cyan. I would much prefer to alter the profile than to mess around applying an additional curves layer in Photoshop everytime I want to print. Sorry, I don't know of any profile editing software. I have you tried running the optimization step with Color Munki using a greyscale image, or even better, an image that consists of a gray ramp, a gray ramp with a slight cyan cast, and the same with a magenta cast?
Brian A Photo Pete wrote: Anyone know of reasonably priced software that will allow editing of ICC printer profiles? I used to use AMS Color Darkroom which gave the ability to alter curves for each color channel in as much detail as required, but Color Darkroom doesn't seem to be supported anymore and isn't compatible with the latest versions of Photoshop (it was a 32 bit photoshop plugin and doesn't even install when using the latest versions of Photoshop CC). Yes, I know that printer profiles 'shouldn't' be edited, but the profiles which are created by the Colormunki Photo simply don't manage to give acceptable greyscale on paper which has any form of brightening agents in it (most high gloss papers). The prints end up far too cyan. I would much prefer to alter the profile than to mess around applying an additional curves layer in Photoshop everytime I want to print. Sorry, I don't know of any profile editing software.
I have you tried running the optimization step with Color Munki using a greyscale image, or even better, an image that consists of a gray ramp, a gray ramp with a slight cyan cast, and the same with a magenta cast? Brian A Photo Pete wrote: Anyone know of reasonably priced software that will allow editing of ICC printer profiles? I used to use AMS Color Darkroom which gave the ability to alter curves for each color channel in as much detail as required, but Color Darkroom doesn't seem to be supported anymore and isn't compatible with the latest versions of Photoshop (it was a 32 bit photoshop plugin and doesn't even install when using the latest versions of Photoshop CC). Yes, I know that printer profiles 'shouldn't' be edited, but the profiles which are created by the Colormunki Photo simply don't manage to give acceptable greyscale on paper which has any form of brightening agents in it (most high gloss papers).
The prints end up far too cyan. I would much prefer to alter the profile than to mess around applying an additional curves layer in Photoshop everytime I want to print. Thankyou., but yes I've tried optimisation images. The problem seems to be that the colormunki is being fooled by the optical brighteners in the paper, so actually is producing what it thinks is the correct colours. Optimisation just makes the greyscale smoother but doesn't eradicate the colour cast. Fortunately since my original post I've managed to download a 32 bit version of Photoshop CC (Adobe have it as a separate download).
AMS Colour darkroom still doesn't install, but I managed to copy the plugin files from an old plugins folder and the software now works. I'm back to being able to edit the icc profiles again. Which makes the colormunki a much more powerful tool (giving it largely the same finctionality as a much more expensive profiling kit) - Have Fun Photo Pete. Photo Pete wrote: Anyone know of reasonably priced software that will allow editing of ICC printer profiles? Don't go there! Well built profiles do not need any editing. Editing software is available from years past if you have an old machine, you'll spend countless hours screwing around and wasting output.
The only reason to really edit a profile is to adjust the paper white for what is called cross rendering (make printer A match printer B). Profiles have two editable tables which must be in sync.
One affects the output, the other the soft proof. Yet many older, cheaper products for profile editing don't allow individual editing over each table. Alter one, the other is altered which often means the soft proof flies out the window. Many of the older editors (like ProfileEditor part of the old, defunct ProfileMakerPro) is so complicated it would make most people's heads explode. The best editor was from Kodak; Custom Color ICC. It ran inside Photoshop as a plug-in.
You edited images but the edits were applied to tiny color patches who's edits ended up back in the profile. You had PS's known toolset for doing your work, it allowed independent editing of both tables.
If something like that were available today (and didn't cost more than Photoshop which it did at the time) and you were OK wasting a lot of time and output to get the edit you desired, I'd recommend it. You don't want to go there. Just get a good ICC Profile, it should need no editing at all. Hugowolf wrote: The Color Munki Photo utilizes a UV cut spectrophotometer, it isn't that it is fooled by the OBA emissions, it just doesn't see them. No hard or fast rule with UV cut vs.
UV included, you really have to use both sets of measurements and build a profile from each, see what works out best. Or do the smart thing if you can, avoid OBA's at any cost: This isn't about fooling if you think about it. The OBA's are there. You see the effect or they wouldn't have been included to make the paper appear whiter.
So cut and ignore what's actually part of the measurement process or include and provide in the measurements something we as humans don't see the same way as the device records? It's a big mess. That's one reason X-rite provides an OBA compensation which is totally based on viewing output under the illuminant which may (or may not) react with OBAs. It is 100% visual, zero measurement for compensation. Photo Pete wrote: Anyone know of reasonably priced software that will allow editing of ICC printer profiles? Don't go there! Well built profiles do not need any editing.
Editing software is available from years past if you have an old machine, you'll spend countless hours screwing around and wasting output. The only reason to really edit a profile is to adjust the paper white for what is called cross rendering (make printer A match printer B). Profiles have two editable tables which must be in sync. One affects the output, the other the soft proof. Yet many older, cheaper products for profile editing don't allow individual editing over each table. Alter one, the other is altered which often means the soft proof flies out the window.
Many of the older editors (like ProfileEditor part of the old, defunct ProfileMakerPro) is so complicated it would make most people's heads explode. The best editor was from Kodak; Custom Color ICC. It ran inside Photoshop as a plug-in. You edited images but the edits were applied to tiny color patches who's edits ended up back in the profile. You had PS's known toolset for doing your work, it allowed independent editing of both tables.
![Photoshop Icc Profile Editor Photoshop Icc Profile Editor](/uploads/1/2/5/3/125390705/622316815.png)
If something like that were available today (and didn't cost more than Photoshop which it did at the time) and you were OK wasting a lot of time and output to get the edit you desired, I'd recommend it. You don't want to go there.
Just get a good ICC Profile, it should need no editing at all. Andrew I know exactly what you're saying, but my prints are generally viewed in daylight which is somewhat cooler than the D50 standard. This leaves my prints looking somewhat cyan/blue. Coupled with an almost universal use of OBAs on glossy paper this means my output with colormunki or spyder print default profiles isn't satisfactory.
A higher end x-rite device with OBA compensation is on my wish list, but I'm not really convinced this will provide much improvement over manually tweaking the profile in AMS color darkroom (both approaches seem to rely on visual edits). My other option is to use the profile editing tools within Spyder print. Which also give me the choice of altering the print profile and softproof profile independently. I have had some success with this appeoach, but it is fairly time consuming as the proofing preview in Spyder Print is pretty poor. Photo Pete wrote: A higher end x-rite device with OBA compensation is on my wish list, but I'm not really convinced this will provide much improvement over manually tweaking the profile in AMS color darkroom (both approaches seem to rely on visual edits). Can't say, but the OBA compensation does work and it is visually based.
OBA=bad (they degrade over time and affect the color of the prints). My other option is to use the profile editing tools within Spyder print. Which also give me the choice of altering the print profile and softproof profile independently. I have had some success with this appeoach, but it is fairly time consuming as the proofing preview in Spyder Print is pretty poor. Yeah, the entire Spyder Print system is kind of a joke IMHO. But if it works, fine.
The product doesn't (at least last time I checked) build great profiles and that's why they give you the editing functionality but it's not very robust. Photo Pete wrote: A higher end x-rite device with OBA compensation is on my wish list, but I'm not really convinced this will provide much improvement over manually tweaking the profile in AMS color darkroom (both approaches seem to rely on visual edits). Can't say, but the OBA compensation does work and it is visually based. OBA=bad (they degrade over time and affect the color of the prints). My other option is to use the profile editing tools within Spyder print.
Which also give me the choice of altering the print profile and softproof profile independently. I have had some success with this appeoach, but it is fairly time consuming as the proofing preview in Spyder Print is pretty poor. Yeah, the entire Spyder Print system is kind of a joke IMHO. But if it works, fine. The product doesn't (at least last time I checked) build great profiles and that's why they give you the editing functionality but it's not very robust. I think I agree about Spyder Print.
Doesn't have the same accuracy as the x-rite hardware and the whole softproof setup is fundamentally broken, needing the user to jump through hoops to overcome the glitches. The idea of being able to compensate the output to suit viewing environments other than D50 seems good though, as does tweaking to allow the user to compensate for OBAs when viewed in their usual viewing light. Have Fun Photo Pete.